Day 3 - May 9th

Well - I'm at least partially back from my near death experiences with strokes, bike crashes and pnuemonia (or bronchitis, maybe). I'm prepared to forge ahead with past due posts and pictures from earlier days. This may be chronologically challenging for some of you trying to follow the blog. Just remember how much more difficult it is for me to try and keep track. Especially with the Xanax factor taken into account.

May 9th found me 3 days out of LA and looking for a little non-ranch action. Not that the ranch isn't nice but I heard Hearst Castle was about an hour and a half away (straight out to the Pacific from Paso Robles). I was on my way but not before stopping at We Olive in Paso Robles to load up bring your own containers with locally made olive oil. On the way to the Castle I passed about 200 wineries. Similar to the drive in from the 5 freeway to Paso Robles. Nice, nice drive.

They offer 4 tours of various portions of the house and grounds, I took the next available as is my wont. It was the upstairs living quarters, including WR's bedroom and the kitchens and pools. It was supposed to last 70 minutes and cost 20 friggin dollars. I wrote a 40 page term paper on WR Hearst in college, so I have more than a passing interest in him and his exploits. I ponied up the cash.

After a five mile hair raising tour bus ride to the site it was pure opulence. Ridicuopulencery. Our guide - I will call him Goofy - was almost supernaturally knowedgeable about the grounds and the Hearsts themselves. Tossing off prices and dynasties and Houses of Tudor's, he knew everything. Weird. The place is beyond description. Go and mock or go and don't. But it's f'in amazing.



Oddly, perhaps because of Citizen Kane, I always thought San Simeon was an ego booster and useless creation. But according to 'Goofy', Hearst built the estate to house his art collection and always knew it would become a public entity in it's future life. Huh. I still think he had a big head. Check out the gold faucets in the kitchen.


Check this indoor pool with 24K inlaid gold floors and walls:

On the way home I stopped at San Simeon State Beach to say goodbye to the Pacific and headed back to the ranch. But not without a few beers in town first -

including a stop at Firestone Walker Brewery a beer I have liked
for a long time.

After a long day I got back to the ranch before sunset and while coming up their road was confronted with a very big weird looking bird. I rolled down my window thinking 'what the hell is that?' Then I heard it... "gobble, gobble" - I freaking pack (clutch, murder?) of turkeys were all around me in the fields talking to each other not the least bit skittish. I was overcome with a memory of my childhood in NY - a similar gang of Turkeys thing. I didn't have a gun this time and got spooked. I headed home Turkeyless.

Music to drive by: Morcheeba
Miles covered: 139
Roadkill count: 1 (small squirll)

Up next: leaving the ranch and heading day 1 Yosemite Valley